Ashura, which forms an important part of our culinary culture, holds its place among our traditional desserts. Ashura is a special dessert prepared on the 10th day of the month of Muharram, embodying feelings of abundance, fertility, unity, and solidarity. It would be incorrect to characterize it merely as a dessert; it must be noted that ashura embodies a unique tradition. It is prepared and served every year on the day designated as Ashura Day.
There are various historical events associated with Ashura Day. The most widely believed of these events is that Prophet Noah's ark rested on the peak of Mount Cudi on this day, making it the day the believers on the ark were saved. According to this belief, following the end of Noah's flood, this special dessert was made for the remaining passengers using the last remaining food items on board, consisting of forty kinds of ingredients. Today, this is kept alive as the ashura tradition. However, there are also different beliefs regarding Ashura Day. For this reason, ashura is known not only as a dessert made by Muslims but as an ancient dish whose origins date back to polytheistic religions.
When we look at the Ottoman period, we can say that ashura held an important place during that era as well. It is known that ashura was prepared and served in soup kitchens (imarets) and distributed to the public, and historical sources indicate that Ashura Day carried a distinct importance at that time. Not only the making and distribution of Ashura, but also the Ashura Day celebrations occupied an important place in the Ottoman period. It is also observed in written works from the Ottoman era that it was included among the dessert varieties in the palace.
In ashura, which is described as a sacred sweet soup, the predominant ingredients are wheat, beans, chickpeas, and sugar. A pinch of salt, just enough not to spoil the taste, is also added. Ashuras prepared during the Ottoman period were served in valuable vessels, sprinkled with pine nuts, currants, and pomegranate seeds.
In the palace, ashura was made in the dessert kitchens (helvahaneler) under the supervision of the chief halva maker (helvacıbaşı). The ashura cooked in the palace was first presented to the sultan accompanied by a special ceremony; following its presentation to the sultan, it was offered to the palace household and the harem. After the palace household, it was distributed to the public and the soup kitchens. In the Ottoman archives, it is possible to find information such as materials purchased for ashura, necessary cooking equipment, the distribution of ashura, the continuation of the ashura tradition, the chefs who cooked ashura, and the methods of making ashura. Although ashura, which can also be described as a ceremonial dessert, had three different preparation methods in the Ottoman Empire—strained (süzme), with grains (taneli), and with milk (sütlü)—it is known to have been made mostly as strained and with grains. During the Ottoman period, the consumption of ashura was not limited to the month of Muharram; it was prepared on special occasions and at certain intervals and distributed in soup kitchens.
Ashura took its place as an important and sacred dessert and tradition in the Ottoman period. Serving as a bridge extending from the palace household and sultans to the public, it became a valuable element that revived feelings of unity and solidarity, as well as social life.
References used:
Açıkgöz Ünyay, Fatma. (2019). Osmanlı Sarayında Aşure Yapımı ve Dağıtımı (XVIII.-XIX. Yüzyıllar). Türk Kültürü ve Hacı Bektaş Velî Araştırma Dergisi.
Işın, Priscilla Mary. (2008). Gülbeşeker Türk Tatlıları Tarihi, İstanbul: Yapı Kredi Yayınları.
Araz, Nezihe, (2000). “Osmanlı Mutfağı”, Hünkar Beğendi-700 Yıllık Mutfak Kültürü, Ankara: Kültür Bakanlığı Yayınları.
