The article by Assoc. Prof. Dr. Murat Doğan, Deputy Dean of Istanbul Gelişim University (IGU), Faculty of Fine Arts (FFA) and academic member of the Department of Gastronomy and Culinary Arts, was published in Hotel Restaurant & Hi-Tech Magazine. The article appeared in the May issue of the magazine with the title "Istanbul Cuisine: A Cuisine Where Ancient Cultures Meet (2)". The text of the relevant article is given below.
Dear readers, I touched upon the historical process of Istanbul cuisine in the previous issue. In my first article, I talked about how the Turks started to settle in Istanbul during the reign of Mehmed the Conqueror, brought with them the culinary culture of Central Asia, Anatolia and Seljuk, and as a result, they were influenced by many ancient civilizations and created the cuisine of Istanbul. I particularly touched upon the history of Istanbul cuisine, which bears traces of Byzantine and Central Asian cuisine. I dealt with baklava, one of the controversial issues, and examined it in historical and geographical contexts. Then, I gave information about the origin and transformation of chicken breast dessert. As a result, in my first article, I emphasized that the richness of Istanbul cuisine has been shaped since the Ottoman period and continues to this day.
In this article, I will try to trace the historical change and transformation adventure of Istanbul cuisine. While the Ottomans had a developed culinary culture when they conquered Istanbul, Istanbul experienced radical transformations in its cuisine. The transition from nomadic life to settled life, Islamization and migrations were three important factors affecting Turkish cuisine. Istanbul had a thousand-year history as the center of Byzantine culture, and the conquest of the Ottoman Empire was a turning point marking the interaction of Greco-Roman and Central Asian Turkish cultures.
Historical Istanbul Cuisine
Historical Istanbul cuisine can basically be divided into two main categories: Ottoman Palace and Public cuisine. Ottoman palace cuisine began to develop in the 15th century and underwent significant transformations, especially after Fatih the Conqueror's conquest of Istanbul. One of the most important foundations of Istanbul cuisine is the Ottoman palace culinary tradition, which combines Turkish and settled Byzantine cultures from Central Asia. The basic foods on the sultan's table usually included soup, mutton, rice and sherbet. In addition to these basic elements, foods such as chicken, noodles, yoghurt, offal, spinach, bulgur and ravioli were also widely available. The palace cuisine, which was initially simple and plain, became richer and more diverse over time as the empire expanded.
Ottoman Palace Cuisine
Among the dishes served in the Ottoman palace cuisine are lamb kebab, seasoned soup, tandoori kebab, artichoke stew, fried chicken, stuffed apples with meat, stuffed eggs, stuffed vine leaves, noodles, pastries, baklava, rice pudding, ashura and various sherbet desserts. While the spices used include saffron, cumin, mustard, coriander and cinnamon, the drinks include lemon juice, boza, water, coffee, compote and various sherbets. Ottoman palace cuisine contributed especially to the development of compote and sherbet culture in a culture that did not include alcoholic beverages.
Istanbul Public Cuisine
When the daily eating habits of the people of Istanbul between the 15th and 17th centuries are examined, it is seen that they ate two meals a day, and their meals mostly consisted of soup, meat dishes and rice. Muslim people did not prefer fish and beef as much as the Greeks. However, vegetable and grain dishes were also frequently found on their tables. Staple foods such as rice, legumes, pastries, yoghurt, cheese, fruit, chickpeas and lentils were common. Those with better financial means preferred special dishes such as kebabs, meat and chicken dishes, stuffed vegetables, katmer, and honey börek. Dessert and beverage preferences included halva, milk and dough desserts and compote. Desserts such as baklava, pudding, and zerde were very popular. Istanbulites consumed tahini, sesame and flax halva more than others. Although the public cuisine was characterized by simpler presentations than the palace cuisine, tables rich in taste and variety were prepared.
Bazaar Cuisine
Istanbul cuisine was not just palace or public cuisine. Since the city has stood out in terms of trade, politics and culture throughout history, merchants, scholars and travelers from distant regions have met their various food needs from the shops in the bazaars. There were many shops selling food such as kebab shops, tripe shops, pastry shops, stuffed vegetables, salad shops, compote shops and cook shops similar to today's tradesmen restaurants. The cooks of these shops, which usually offered single, two or three-course meals, were also masters in their fields of expertise. In addition, the food of street vendors who prepare food in bazaars and other squares has become an integral part of the city's culinary culture. Foods handed down from master to master, such as bagels, ice cream, kokoreç, stuffed mussels, chicken rice, pudding, rooster candy, boza, sherbet and lemonade, were sold.
As a result, Istanbul cuisine has been influenced by different food cultures throughout history and has blended the dynamics and traditions of different societies. Thus, intercultural interaction has created a rich and original cuisine.
Stay well…
Assoc. Prof. Dr. Murat Doğan
