Istanbul Gelisim University (IGU), Faculty of Fine Arts (FFA), Gastronomy and Culinary Arts Department Res. Asst. Ayşe Seray Çetin made evaluations on "Ramadan Flavors".
Ramadan was extremely important in the Ottoman Empire, as in the entire Islamic world. Although today the month of Ramadan has become more ordinary in the hustle and bustle of daily life, in the past in Anatolia, preparations began before Ramadan even came and everyone was in a rush. In the Ottoman Empire, with the beginning of three months, various preparations started in the houses and the pantries were filled with legumes, syrups, compotes and candies. The best examples of the symbolization of food appear as Ramadan delicacies. Throughout the period from the Ottoman Empire to the present day, the flavors that come to mind when Ramadan is mentioned are always the same; Ramadan pita and Güllaç.
Ramadan Pita
According to Islamic belief, the history of bread dates back to Hz. Adem. There is a narrative about this belief in Evliya Çelebi's Seyahatname. Evliya Çelebi, in the section called "Breadmakers' Tradesmen" in Travelogue, noted that during his time, special white breads with black cumin and sesame seeds, Ramadan pitas, loaves, lavash and phyllo breads were widely made.
In a culture where bread is so important, one of the symbols of Ramadan and one of the most common delicacies is Ramadan pita. Starting from Ottoman Istanbul in the 15th century, it has continued until today and has become a Ramadan delicacy. In fact, Evliya Çelebi, in his Seyahatname, mentions that large Ramadan pitas with almonds, black cumin, saffron and poppy seeds were baked in ovens during Ramadan in the 17th century.
In the Ottoman Empire, people who spent their days doing daily work and worship would leave their work as iftar time approached and head home for iftar. On their way home, they would not forget to buy Ramadan pitas by joining the long pita queues in front of the bakeries. Bakers start preparations for Ramadan pita days in advance; They would clean the ovens, bring in special flour, prepare firewood, and hire nail artists.
Güllaç
Another Ramadan flavor that is as important as pita is Güllaç. Güllaç meets the need for dessert after the iftar meal, as it is light and does not make you thirsty after eating. That's why it has been consumed with great pleasure during Ramadan since ancient times. Güllaç, which dates back to the Ottoman Empire, was sweetened with rose water. In addition to rose water, Güllaca, which is usually made with sugar sherbet, also adds musk, clotted cream, pistachios, almonds or hazelnuts. There were many varieties of Güllac, which was included in the palace cuisine in the half of the 15th century and was always on the tables of Ottoman sultans. There were varieties of Güllaç whose leaves were wrapped in bundles, amulets or rolls. There was also a version in which the leaves were dipped in eggs, fried, or dipped in syrup. Nowadays, rose flavor is not preferred much and is consumed flavored with walnuts and pomegranate.
According to the oldest recipe of Güllaç, dating back to the 13th century, a watery dough made of wheat starch and water or beaten egg whites was poured onto a sheet and Güllaç leaves were obtained. Today, Güllaç dough is made from corn starch and water.
According to the data given by the Association of Turkish Travel Agencies in 2014, 100 tons of Güllaç phyllo dough is produced annually, and 85% of this is consumed during Ramadan.
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